The word ‘dandy’ was first used in the late 18th century to refer to a man that pays great attention to dress and fashion. A true dandy likes to wear impeccable, ostentatious clothes and prides himself not only on his appearance but on his wit, grace and casual manner. Dandyism is more than a style of dress, it is a code of honour and behaviour, ruled by very specific precepts. Its main motto is: “Control yourself and you’ll rule the world”.
THE MACARONIS
The predecessors of the dandies were the macaronis. Around 1760, a group of young men who had returned to Britain from a grand trip across Continental Europe intended to deepen their cultural knowledge. Back in London, they formed a club, which they called the Macaroni Club in honour of Italy. To be a ‘macaroni’ was to be sophisticated, upper-class and worldly. A typical member of the club would be a slim man wearing high-waisted trousers, flashy shoes, striped stockings and an enormous powdered wig with a miniature tricorn hat on top. Unsurprisingly, they were mocked in thousands of satirical prints.
Beau brummell
The most famous dandy and the man who changed the course of men’s fashion forever was George Bryan “Beau” Brummell. Born in London in 1778, he is considered by some to be the most important figure in British fashion history: the man who invented the suit, comprised of full-length trousers with a matching jacket, a necktie and polished boots.
DAILY BATHS
In one way or another, all dandies derive from Beau Brummell. Unlike the macaronis, however, Brummell did not wear a wig or make-up. His style was neat and simple, although it is said that it took him up to five hours to dress each day. Brummell was obsessed with cleanliness and took daily baths at a time when the custom was only just becoming popular in 19th-century Europe.
DANDIZETTES
In the 19th century, “Dandizette” was a term applied to the female supporter of fashionable dress, who had a dedication equal to that of the male dandies. In the 20th century, the author George Sand, the designer and businesswoman Coco Chanel and the actor Marlene Dietrich represented the modern dandizettes. They adapted the male suit to women’s fashion in a way that proved comfortable, stylish and liberating.
