Highway 61 is legendary. It follows the “mighty Mississippi” River all the way from Duluth, Minnesota in the northern United States, down to New Orleans, Louisiana in the “Deep South.” New Orleans is very famous, but what’s the significance of Duluth? Bob Dylan was born there. Dylan hitchhiked down Highway 61 when he was a young man. He wanted to discover America’s authentic folk music, the Blues of the Mississippi Delta. The southern section of Highway 61 has a nickname: “The Blues Highway.”
robert johnson
The Mississippi is a river, but it is also the name of a state in the Deep South. A famous event took place in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Musician Robert Johnson met the Devil there at the crossroads of Highways 61 and 49. Johnson sold his soul and the Devil gave him the secret of the blues. The “Devil’s Crossroads” is only a legend, of course, but Clarksdale is an important musical location. It was the home town of great bluesmen like John Lee Hooker and Muddy Waters. Today Clarksdale is still home to the blues: you can visit clubs like Red’s Lounge or Morgan Freeman’s Ground Zero Blues Club.
cotton
John Lee Hooker and Muddy Waters were born on cotton plantations. Waters lived on the Stovall Plantation near Clarksdale. You can see his modest home, or “shack” today. Nearby Hopson Plantation offers music, barbecues and an idea of plantation life. In contrast, there is the beautiful town of Natchez with the plantation owners’ elegant, 19th century mansions. The town’s market place still has the old iron shackles for slaves.
chicago
In the 20th century, Highway 61 was the road to freedom. Afro-American musicians escaped from the South’s plantations. They travelled north, to Memphis, St. Louis and Chicago. Electric “Chicago Blues” was one of the results of this migration. The Highway 61 musicians also inspired jazz, soul, rock ‘n roll and hip hop.
memphis
Memphis is a good example. Bluesmen made the city’s Beale Street famous. They also influenced white singers like Elvis Presley. Memphis was the home of Stax Records, the label of Otis Redding and other great artists. Highway 61 really does hold the secret of the Blues.
Muddy Waters and the Stovall Plantation
Muddy Waters (1915 - 1983), real name McKinley A. Morganfield, moved to Stovall Plantation, Clarksdale when he was three. It was 1918. He lived with his grandmother. She gave him his nickname ‘Muddy’ because he always played in the mud. They were poor. Muddy grew up with a love for the blues. He listened and learned from local legends like Robert Johnson and Son House. He worked on the plantation, and sang the blues. Muddy Waters played at bars up and down the Blues Highway. His real income was collecting bottles for bootleggers. In 1941 music researcher Alan Lomax came to Stovall. He discovered Muddy and inspired him to leave.
In 1943 Waters went north to Chicago. He worked in factories for a few years, and played in bands. He bought himself an electric guitar. People loved his new sound. Waters then signed for the legendary Chess Records. Finally, Muddy Waters was a star.
